Butterick 5794 Sweaterdress

Well, I just realized that this pattern is out of print, which is so sad!  This is a great pattern, and it's kind of unique, not the kind of thing you can easily engineer from another dress pattern.  It has a lot of great details.

The pattern is Butterick 5794.

I made basically the black version with pink's sleeves, but I raised the neckline a couple inches (for warmth!) and added long cuffs to the sleeves instead of finishing them with elastic.

I raised the neckline a bit, because I have a store-bought sweaterdress with a low cowl neckline, and I am always cold when I wear it.  I like the higher neckline for a dress that is supposed to be warm.

I am really happy with the sleeves and the gathers.  They are both such fun details that make this dress so interesting.  

The fabric is from the recently-closed Gorgeous Fabrics website.  It is a different color of the same fabric I used for my green Arenal sweater top.

The only thing I would do differently if I make this again is lower the waistline one inch.  It's in a strange place that's lower than empire-waist but higher than my natural waist.  

Let's end on one more shot of those pretty gathers!

Wayworn Hat from Interweave Knits Holiday 2017 in Prairie Spun DK

I have made a second pattern from the Interweave Knits Holiday 2017 magazine, and there are more patterns in there that interest me.  It's a great accessories magazine.

This is the Wayworn Cap by Meghan Huber.  My yarn is Brown Sheep Company's Prairie Spun Dk in the color rain cloud.  It's a blue-leaning pale heather gray.  This is a great hat pattern for one skein of dk yarn.

You can't see the texture very well in my photos, but there are cables that lay very flat, so this is not a yarn hog and lays flat against the head.

I love the soft gray color and the deep ribbed brim!

Handmade Batty Top for Halloween

I am waaaaay too excited about this little top!  :-)  I was at JoAnn Fabrics to get who-knows-what, and I saw a display of Halloween fabrics.  The cool thing was that these were not quilting cotton fabrics but knits!!  Now, the designers may have envisioned some cute pjs for little ones, but that's not what I saw.  This bat-printed interlock spoke - no - screamed at me to become a top for moi.

  

To make this basic raglan-sleeved top, I used a pattern so old that it doesn't even show up on Vogue's out-of-print archives.  It is Vogue 8670, and I used it once before, 3.5 years ago, back in the final days of the old blog.  One thing I didn't like about that original top was that the sleeves are 2-pieces, with a seam running right down the outside of the arm.  This time, I did some creative taping and eyeballing to eliminate that seam.  It worked out great!

I sewed this top mostly on my serger, but I did use my regular machine to sew the neckband and the hems since I would be covering them up with non-stretchy trim anyway.

Please excuse the dog hair right in the middle of my hip here, but here is a closeup of two fun trims that I used to jazz up this top.  First, I machine stitched the top edge of this narrow velvet ribbon right on top of the hem stitching.  Next, I lined up some lace underneath to be caught in the second row of stitching at the bottom of the velvet ribbon.  I also bought the black lace at JoAnn, but unfortunately, I can't find it online.

So there it is!  My fun new Halloween top.  When I want to be a little less conspicuous about it, I wear a black cardigan on top so it's more subtle, but I love that it doesn't scream orange Halloween.  It's like classy Halloween.  

Helene Cardigan by Jalie

Hello!  This is the Helene Shawl Collar Cardigan by Jalie.  This is actually my first Jalie pattern, and I really like it!  I also bought this pants/shorts pattern, but I haven't tried it out yet.

The fabric for this cardigan is from Pennie Fabrics in Sarasota.  It is a navy boucle textured knit with very little stretch, and it has brick red flecks in it.  Very unique and cool.  

The neatest feature of this pattern is the pockets.  The design makes them super easy to sew.  This went together super quickly with just my serger and coverstitch machines.

I need to dig out the camera remote.  I don't know what I did with the timer that made me look yellow.  I'm a little blurry,, too, which I blame on the camera focusing on the trees behind me.  Someday, I'll get this taking pictures of myself thing all figured out.

I like that the line of the pockets continues around to the back.  I like details like that.  Plus, the seamed pieces give the back great shape.

I will definitely be making this again, both for me and for the nieces.  It's a great basic.  Here's a little detail shot of a pocket:

Cascade Falls Cardigan knit in Rowan Merino dk

Ever since I finished my Georgetown Cardigan in light gray, I have wanted a similar open cardigan in dark gray, because one gray open cardigan is never nearly enough!

I considered designing my perfect cardigan - set-in sleeves, open front, longish length, and a pretty cable right at the opening.  Then, after an exhaustive Ravelry search of the pattern options already out there, I found exactly what I was looking for:  Cascade Falls by Amanda Scheuzger.

My cardigan is very close to the original pattern.  I just changed the construction a bit.  It is designed nearly seamlessly, with the body worked bottom-up in one piece, and the sleeves picked up and knit down.  With this heavy merino dk yarn, though, I wanted the strength of seams to help it keep its shape, so I knit this in pieces and sewed them together.  My sleeves are, as always, several inches longer than the design.  After blocking, they grew even more in length, so now I have the unusual (for me) luxury of fold-up cuffs!

The gorgeous, soft yarn is Rowan Super Fine Merino dk, which appears to be discontinued.  That is a crying shame as this is a lovely mid-weight merino.  Yes, I am sure it will pill.  Most soft yarns do.  However, I will be ready with my de-pill-er, and it is an inconvenience I can live with for next-to-skin softness.

You can still find Rowan Merino dk at various online shops, but I can't find this color, Suit, anywhere.

McCalls 7429

This is version 2 of McCalls 7429, actually in the full-length dress this time.  The first time I made this pattern, I found the skirt portion too short and tight, so I modified it to be a tunic.  This time, I lengthened the skirt pieces and cut the sides more A-line shaped to compensate.  

I started out by cutting the sleeves long, figuring I could adjust them when the rest of the dress was finished.  I decided that with the long sleeves, it was just too much white, but I did like the look of longer sleeves, so instead of cutting them short, I went with 3/4.

The fabric is a white cotton ponte from Pennie Fabrics in Sarasota, but white ponte isn't hard to find online.  

I am not sure about the hem.  The knot pulls the hem all different ways.  Sometimes it looks like the outer wrap is too long, but a little adjustment fixes it.  I am leaving it as is for now, but if I find that I am constantly having to adjust, I will just redo the hem.

When I envisioned this dress in white in my head, I thought it would be so classic and classy, and it is.  I wanted it to hit at the bottom of my knee, which it does.  It is form-fitting, but doesn't show a lot of skin.  Then, the first time I wore it, I noticed THIS as I walked through a parking lot...

Yeah, there is nothing to be done.  That wrap is at the just the right spot to show a LOT of leg when walking.  :-)

x

Here is a closeup of the knot detail.

I constructed almost all of this dress on my serger and coverstitch machines that I received for Christmas.  It was awesome!  It goes without saying that you don't need either type of machine to make this dress, though.  In fact, I made my first red tunic version before I had either one.

I hope all the moms out there have a great Mothers' Day!

Serger/Coverstitch Tee

This is the second tee I made on my serger and coverstitch machines that I received for Christmas presents.  (You didn't miss anything - I haven't photographed the first one I made yet).  I am still getting the hang of everything, but I am pretty happy with how this turned out.

The fabric is from Gorgeous Fabrics.  The description says that it is acetate/rayon/lycra.  I didn't really know what acetate is made from, so I just looked it up.  Basically, it is made from fibers spun from wood pulp.  The fabric's hand reminds me a lot of a thick nylon knit, like J. McLaughlin's Catalina cloth.

I think I used Itch to Stitch's Arenal top pattern as a base for this.  Any basic tee pattern that fits well can be modified to 100 different necklines, sleeves, and hems.  I wanted a boatneck for this version, so I made a facing to finish the neckline.  This is the part I'm not totally happy with - somewhere along the way, I stretched out the neckline.  I think it was when I serged the facing to the body at the neckline opening.  I am still getting the hang of the serger, and it think the tension wasn't 100% where it needed to be for a smooth seam.  You can see that the neckline stands away from me a bit.  Washing and drying hasn't improved this.

So yeah, that bugs me, but I'll live with it and wear this anyway.  I could always go back and widen the whole neckline to a ballet-type neck and try again.  Or, I can wear this under a scarf of cardigan to minimize the issue.  Or, I can just make another.  I have plenty of fabric.  I am thinking of using that extra fabric for McCalls 7538 as discussed earlier, though.

Who knows?  Time will tell whether I wear this often and what I decide about that wonky neckline...

Itch to Stitch Arenal Top with lace shoulders

This is my third and final (for now) Arenal top by Itch to Stitch.  You can see my other two Arenal tops here.  It has taken me a long time to post these photos because there is some seriously weird lighting go on, and I planned to take better photos.  It hasn't happened in the past month, though, so I am just going with these.  Seriously, though, how is it both overcast and too sunny?

I used the 3/4 sleeves and standard hem on this version.  The knit fabric is from Pennie Fabrics in Sarasota and is very lightweight and drapey.  I have quite a bit more, and I'm not sure what to make with it.  Suggestions?  I am thinking of checking if I have enough for the dress pattern that I used to make my red tunic.

For this version, I used a little lavender lace I have had in my stash for eons.  I wanted to use the scalloped hem edge, but I didn't want to worry about bra strap show-through, so I just layered it on top of the standard tee.  For the knit fabric, I overlapped the front pattern piece and the front yoke pattern piece (the shoulder contrast) to make one whole front up to the shoulder.  Then, I used the yoke piece to cut my lace.  I just layered the lace on top of the knit fabric and constructed this as a regular tee.  Super simple, and it is a fun extra detail.

 I was a pattern tester for Kennis, and the links to Itch to Stitch pages in this post are affiliate.

Arenal Top by Itch to Stitch using Pennie Fabrics

Here is something fun!  I tested the new Arenal pattern by Itch to Stitch, and it is a fantastic pattern.

Here is the line drawing to give you a better idea of the style lines.  The contrasting yoke pieces lend themselves to a lot of really cute details, but the best part of the pattern for me is the handkerchief hem option and the V-neckline instructions that really do ensure a great result.

 This version uses two companion fabrics that I purchased at Pennie Fabrics in Sarasota.  They are both mid-weight rayon knits with sheer stripes.  The sleeve and yoke fabrics have narrower stripes than the body fabric, making the combo a little more fun and interesting than using only one fabric.  (My local sewing friend Myra bought some of this fabric, too, and I can't wait to see what she makes with it.)  I was lucky to find a close-colored cami at Target to layer underneath these sheer stripes.

I am so happy with how this top turned out.  It's always nice when you receive compliments on your sewing not just because someone knows you sewed it, but because they just like your top.  :-)

If I make this handkerchief hem version again, I will lengthen it an inch or two to ensure crotch coverage over leggings.  It is ok with thicker jeggings here, and the cami offers more coverage, but a longer tunic version would be nice, too.

This second version is actually the first that I sewed.  After this one, I determined I needed a wide-shoulder adjustment for future iterations.  This fabric is also from Pennie Fabrics.  It is a beefy cotton sweatshirt-type fabric.  The contrast is a terry fleece that I bought a few yards of from Mood Fabrics for a little lounge-wear ensemble that has yet to be created.

At first, I used the handkerchief hem on this top, but the thicker fabric wouldn't drape down nicely, so I changed it to the standard hem.  This is a great cozy sweatshirt.

I am very happy with this pattern.  I have another that I have already made, but I will share it in a separate post since I made a couple of small changes to the design. .


* The Itch to Stitch links are affiliate links.

McCall's 7319 Knit Dress

I can't decide how I feel about this.  I mean, I know I don't LOVE it.  I can't quite decide if I even like it.  One thing it has going for it is that it is SO comfortable.

The pattern is McCall's 7319.  My fabric is a very lightweight oatmeal-colored knit from JoAnn Fabrics.  I made a double skirt because of the sheer fabric, and that worked out well.  I left the hem and bottom edges of the wraps raw instead of hemming.  This knit fabric doesn't fray or curl at all, and it is so lightweight that the less I do with it, the better.

I do really like that the crossover detail continues on the back of the dress.  I find it really annoying, in both sewing and ready-to wear, when a detail on the front just stops at the side seams with nary a hint on the straight back.  My knit has only a little stretch, and it does make it challenging to get on and off.  Once it is on, though, it is super comfortable.  

I did a lot of tacking down at the neckline to keep everything just so, and now that I have worn it a few times, I think I need to tack at the waist as well.  The crossovers have a tendency to ride up and show the waist seam underneath.

So yeah, I don't know about this one.  I have been wearing it, but it's not one of my favorites.

McCalls 7429 Twist Dress shortened to a Tunic

This project gave me a bit of stress, but it all turned out well!  This is McCalls 7429, from the recent Early Fall collection.  I almost got this post up before the newer McCalls Fall collection was released, so I was almost on trend.  Oh well.

My fabric for this is a rayon/cotton jersey from Mood Fabrics that is now sold out.  That is very sad because this fabric is a dream, and at $7.99 a yard, the price was right.  I have decided that rayon/cotton blends are my favorite jerseys.  Just enough heft, just enough sheen, and just enough comfort.  The first picture in this post accurately reflects the color - a bright, rich red.

I made a few changes in the end.  I lengthened the short sleeves a bit to hit right at the crease of my elbows, and I shortened the whole dress to tunic length.  Truth be told, that was my plan at the outset, but I was concerned the proportions would not look right, so I made the dress full length first.  It turned out to be uncomfortably short as drafted (I am 5'6", so taller than average, but not too much).  It was several inches above my knee before hemming.  That's when I decided the tunic was happening, and I am really happy with the result.  I think the proportions are fine, and I could use a comfortable tunic top in my wardrobe more than a red dress.

I like the twist detail on this dress.  Twist tops were everywhere 5-10 years ago, and then they were less in fashion.  I kind of hope they are making a comeback.  I think they are really flattering and elevate a basic tee shirt.  This knot being at the waist is a bit different from the usual center bust placement.  As with many twist top patterns, the instructions had me scratching my head a couple of times.  I think there is just no way around it.  Interesting patterns will be a bit more challenging.  I just followed slowly step by step, and everything turned out fine.

There is a center back seam on this pattern, which makes for a great fit, and would make a swayback adjustment simple to do.  Mine fit fine, though.  Oops, you can see the back pockets on my ponte pants through my top.  I will generally wear this over leggings or jeggings, but I was going for a slightly dressier look today for my anniversary dinner.  :-)  Here is my whole look - leopard print pumps and all.