Marfy 3443

Here it is:  Marfy 3443

 

This was a mental challenge, figuring out the order of construction and where to use structural fabrics.  I am very pleased with the outcome!  My original plan was to walk through the muslin and construction in more detail, but I had a deadline for this dress (son's First Communion) and found myself less than two weeks out without so much as a  cut-out muslin.

Here are the fashion illustrations.  Both have a buckle or brooch at the center.  I considered adding the brooch I mentioned here, but the fabric is so busy, I think it would have been lost anyway.

I think my waistline falls higher than in the illustrations, but it's hard to tell.  It does fall at my narrowest part, more at my lower rib cage than natural waistline.  I do think it is flattering. 

My waist and hip measurements fell between two pattern sizes, so I ordered down due to my small bust.  I figured the bust would be the most difficult part to adjust.  This plan worked out well.  I did add about 1" total to the waist area at the side seams, and I needed to add almost two inches in the back since it felt tight across the shoulders and back.  The hip area was fine as drafted due to the A-line shape and tucks.  I'm so glad I made a muslin for this dress.

Because the sleeves fall right below the crease of the elbow, and mine are simply one layer of silk chiffon, they do tend to get bunched up like you see in the photos, but it doesn't bother me.

Side view:  Despite the higher waistline and pleats, there is no maternity look about this dress.  The silk just lays perfectly flat where it is supposed to.  It could easily be modified to make a killer maternity dress, though.  I found the muslin sleeves were tight for me and I couldn't move my arms enough.  I added an inch to each sleeve and they are so much more comfortable now.

 I guess the back of this dress is nothing to write home about, but the fit is good and I got that center back invisible zip into the silk without bubbles, so that's something!

This dress is soooo swishy.  Love it!  I used a printed silk chiffon with a silk charmeuse lining/underlining depending on the area of the dress.  I used silk organza to add structure (interface) the back pieces and the side fronts.  The bust and skirt (areas with pleats and gathers) are just the chiffon lined with the charmeuse.  The sleeves are a single layer of chiffon.

The chiffon and charmeuse are from Pennie Fabrics in Sarasota.  The organza I've had for years and just use as needed on projects like this.  I mentioned using it to interface this blouse.

 Here are all the details.  I stitched down the skirt pleats for a couple of inches as shown on the pattern piece.  In the muslin, I didn't do that - I just tucked them and basted without stitching down.  I think these pop more and look more like the pattern illustration.

Inside, some areas are finished with the charmeuse acting as a lining, and some seams are finished with bias tape depending on what the area needed.  For instance, the zipper needed all three layers (chiffon, organza, and charmeuse) treated as one so the zipper wouldn't show through the chiffon and organza, so I finished that seam with some bias tape.

 I also treated the chiffon and charmeuse as one for the skirt pleats and finished the ends with bias tape.

Edit:  If you're interested in the Marfy process, I wrote a post about opening one up here.

Pattern Picks and Pattern Purchases

I'm in the middle of a big crafting organization.  I've been going through the house during the past two weeks, sorting through everything in each room and really getting organized.  My method of attack is pretending that we are about to move.  If it wouldn't come on the moving truck, it doesn't stay.  I've donated bags of clothing and toys and now it's time for the guest room / crafting storage area.

I have my sewing machine in the office and my current knitting projects in a basket in my bedroom, but any overflow (fabric, yarn, paper crafting supplies) are stuffed into closets, under beds, and in guest room drawers.  Last year, I really culled my yarn stash and have been thoughtful about purchases since then, so I don't plan to donate any more.  Fabric, patterns, and paper craft supplies, though, are another story.  I haven't gone through them in, oh, ever, and there is plenty that just doesn't need to be in my house any more.

So as I go upstairs and continue the purge, here is some of my current inspiration, i.e., new patterns!

Vogue summer patterns just came out, and I'm not as in love as I was with the spring offerings.  These are the ones I may buy at some point, but I'm not rushing out to to the fabric store for them.

Vogue 1449, by Rebecca Taylor, is the only designer offering that interested me.  It would need some adjustment (about 4 more inches on the skirt), but the lines are different, and the skirt portion is fun with the big pleats.

Vogue 1452, by Sandra Betzina, has a cute top.  I would narrow that shoulder strap to be the same width as the other.  I like the split hem detail and rouching.

That top stitching at the neckline, though... I'd go for invisible stitching inside.

Claire Shaeffer has a new Custom Couture jacket pattern, Vogue 9099.  

Very nice, but I have a very similar style that was discontinued... complete with half finished jacket in need of a lining.  

I'm thinking about Vogue 9109, but I could cobble it together with little trouble from patterns I already have.

What I'm really excited about is the three Marfy patterns on their way to my house.

I got Marfy 3443 to make this spring for a wedding that I now won't be able to attend.  I'm still excited to make the dress, though, and have a beautiful silk chiffon and silk charmeuse all ready for underlining.  I'm even going to make a muslin.  Will wonders never cease?

Since I ordered that pattern, I had to get a couple more, right?  I also ordered Marfy 2762 to satisfy my jacket love with something a bit more suitable for Florida.  I find it hilarious that the suggested fabric is "viscose in an ethnic print."  Specific enough?  I'll go with linen or cotton, I think.  Sorry, designer.

My last pattern is Marfy 2779 because, well, because I like it, in this tunic length or lengthened into a dress.

I also bought some Simplicity patterns a few weeks ago, but I think this post is long enough already.  They'll just have to wait.

Happy spring cleaning to all!

Fall 2014 Marfy Patterns

The Fall/Winter Marfy patterns are up on the McCalls site.  I have sewn a few Marfy patterns, and I love the fit and experience.  Here is an older post about sewing with Marfys.


I haven't ordered any in a few years, but here are the ones I really want now:


I like the slightly retro feel of 3516 without venturing into costume territory.  I think it would be great with a lightweight tweedy fabric and a good excuse to finally make some fabric-covered buttons.

3443 is a beautiful knit dress with strategic pleats and nifty faux belt for waist definition.

3429 is an elegant option.  I adore the neckline with tucks to make a sort of shawl collar.  I also really like the lace on the sides as an unexpected embellishment.  Again with the belt.

I like the subtle asymmetry of 3425.  I wonder if the skirt is bias-cut.  Another great, slightly unexpected use of trim.

We're definitely venturing into too-dressy-for-anything-I-do territory, but 3442 is gorgeous!  Not your run of the mill sheer sleeves with lacy dress (cough).  There is so much pretty going on here, and it all works together.  I'd even go for the peplum.  I love you, Marfy.

Ok, now we must get to the coats.  We shall not discuss the fact that I live in Florida and have plenty of coats.  Alright?

3506 is more of a jacket anyway, right?  A beefy knit or tweed and it'd be perfect for the dead of winter here.  Oh the piping/trim.  I swoon.

My new coat desire is something collarless so that it doesn't have to compete with all of my splendid knit scarves and cowls.  3480 fits the bill.

Although, I think it is 3481 that is singing to me in the collarless coat department.  Maybe it's the plaid.  Or the fur.  Which reminds me, I should mention all the fur stoles my MIL and I found in my GMIL's (is that a thing?  Grandmother-in-law) closet.  The absolute height of sophistication at the time, I'm sure, but they just kind of creep me out with their little heads and feet and stuff.  Yikes!  Anyway...

Let's wrap it up with 3482.  Why do I feel like this could fulfill my unknown desires to feel like a Russian Czarina?  Again, maybe the fabric choice.  I really like the figure-flattering cut on this.  I'm into the incorporated faux-belts this season, I guess.

Have you ever sewn a Marfy pattern?  Any desire to try?  At $15+ a pop, I need to pare down my selection a bit (or a lot).